Fairy Meadows

Fairy Meadows

On May 11, 2012 we left for fairy meadows. This is my detail travelogue. It’s divided in two parts. First part will explain that how exactly we executed the plan and second part will include if I need to improve on that plan then what could be done.

At sharp 9:55 pm Friday night our high roof hiace was on move from Shell Petrol pump Thokar Niaz Baig with 9 members on board.

We started our journey through motorway but then moved on to GT road from Kala Shah Kaku Interchange.

Journey was going smooth until we reach Islamabad where military/police stopped us on Peshawar road. They said that hiace/high roof can’t go from this road and we should go from some highway which our driver told will be atleast 70km more distance consuming atleast one more hour. Rain with thunderstorm was moving along with us and taking a long via is not just going to trouble us but was also going trouble the members waiting for us in Islamabad. Any ways after near 15 minutes of requests army allowed us to move on Peshawar road.

We were supposed to pick two members from Islamabad from Peshawar mor. But there was some miscommunication on location of Peshawar mor. As per my knowledge Peshawar mor is just after crossing the motorway interchange but our friends from Islamabad were thinking of a different Peshawar mor. I believe both
of us were correct as my slightest memory do give that they were not wrong either. Any ways rain picked up. We stopped our high roof under an abandoned gas filling station. Our friends from Islamabad reached to that place within an hour but that one hour was a very tough one hour for us as mosquitoes attacked us. And mosquitoes were in such a number that we were really feeling slaps on our faces, they were going in our mouth, eyes and ears and most of us were in half sleeves so passing of that hour was too tough. We did a mistake that when we stopped at filling station we opened our window of our high roof van and now we were neither able to go inside not could come out. Thankfully our friends from Islimabad arrived and with the Fajar Azan(Morning Prayer) we left Islamabad at 3:30 am. As soon as we started journey from islimabad we opened our all windows which really helped us to get rid of mosquitoes.

Most of guys were in favor of having breakfast from Manshera city but considering my previous bad experiences of breakfast from Manshera I was not willing to have it from Manshera. Any ways with cool breeze I went into the valley of dreams thinking of the beautiful fairies of fairy meadows when suddenly the curly roads after manshera opened my eyes resulting is nausea causing couple of vomits.

At around 7 we were in Batgram(A city name), we had a breakfast in Thai hotel. Although there was nothing thai about that hotel but they had really good parathas, omlet and fried eggs. They also had camps with bed which allowed us to straighten our backs for some while.

On reaching Batgram my head was all spinning due to the curly roads and I had my third vomit. I am quite use to them now so it was not a big deal.

While leaving from batgram I requested my team to give me the front seat along with driver. Because by sitting on front seat I never feel nausea. But disadvantage of sitting at front seat is that one has to keep himself awake so one can’t really sleep & dream of the fairies Land.

I was extremely delighted to see the beauty, greenery and snow covered peaks of batgram but I was sad too, to see that such a beautiful place is neglected.

Any ways our journey continued a ravine was moving with us. We reached at Thahkot where that ravine was mixing into the Indus river.

Road till Thahkot is good enough but after Thahkot its not good for a driver who drives with care. Natco and other bus companies hardly care about bad road and does not change their speed but our driver was extremely cautious. At around 10:30-11:00 we were at besham. The road in besham bazaar is extremely bad and crossing that one km patch takes around 10-15 minutes.

Just before reaching basham NIC of our each and every member was checked. That was the only point where NIC of every one was checked in all of rest of point showing of NIC of 2-3 members was enough.

At 2:30 we stopped at Dassu for tea and filling diesel in our van. We took vegetables from dasu and left dasu at 3:55 pm. We would have left dasu at 3:15 but unfortunately one of our members went in search of warid mobile card and came back empty handed after nearly 30 minutes. Warid card was not available in Dasu.

Mobile signals come till dasu and after leaving dasu within 30 minuets mobiles signals vanishes away.

After leaving dasu for 30 minutes bad road continues but then really good road starts where one can easily drive uptil 80 km/hour.

It important to mention that from Thahkot to Dasu our average speed was not more than 30-40 km /hour due to road condition

As soon as the cold breeze of evening touched my face, I again got lost in the valley of dream of fairies of fairy meadows. It was obviously a very dangerous thing for driver who himself was getting tired so he stopped vehicle and asked me to move back.

After moving back hardly I would have spent an hour that nausea feeling got triggered off and I did couple of vomit within 15 minutes so I again requested my team to give me front seat. Challenge of remain awakened was tough but it was at least easier thing to do as compared to vomits J

At around 6:30 pm we entered in Gilgit Baltistan territory. Our driver was extremely tired and we just continuously talking with him to make sure he was awake.

After entering Gilgit Baltistan we were hopeful that chilas will be hardly 30 minutes away but it was not appearing. Deteriorating situation of our driver was a continuous worry and only some Punjabi songs and continuous talk with him was confirming that he is awake.

At around 7:30 we reached chilas but mistakenly went into the chilas city but quickly returned back. At 8 we finally stopped at chilas.

It was chillingly cold as we were mostly in half sleeves. Due to off season hotels were easily available at 600-700 Pkr.

We stayed at Grace continental Hotel at 600 Pkr per night for 3 bed room.

Chiken Karahi at Grace Hotel was of 900 Pkr. We ordered two chicken karahi, our team lead bought daal mash & bhindi from another hotel and himself made Kachumar Salad. Food was good. 

Our driver went straight into the bed, we sent food to his room. It was tough 22 hour drive for him and he was feeling pain in his arms.

We moved into our rooms took think blankets on and then most of the members gathered in our room. Two members also joined us in Chilas and we had good discussion about life experiences of each other. It was a good discussion and do helped us to intermingle with each other.

Before sleeping we ordered breakfast to be ready at 6 am. And it was almost on time. Breakfast was extremely good fried eggs, omlets and parathas

We had some wrong info that Nanga Parbat is visible from Chilas and considering that info we thought some random snow covered mountain to be nanga parbat and do took its few photographs but it was surely not nanga parbat. Nanga parbat might be visible from Chilas as locals said but atleast we were not able to spot it.

On mountains on opposite sides of Indus River we saw some white markings. We were told it’s for basha dam and Chilas main hotel area will be demolished in coming years.

We left Chilas at 7:30, Two members who joined us in chilas were on their own car so they moved with us on their own car. We took mineral water bottles from chilas and it was a very good decision as at our next stop of raikot water was not drinkable. Locals drink it but for a person of Lahore & Islamabad drinking grayish black water of Indus River is surely a tough task.

Our guide (Shah Ferman) was waiting for us at a place called some thing like “Danna Farms”

After leaving chilas we entered into babusar valley and I was absolutely astonished to see its beauty, I made so many clicks in that valley that even I didn’t made that much clicks of Nanga Parbat. The Rock carvings, sand, Rock Mountains were simply mind blowing. There were many areas in that valley that they were surely untouched by any human since the creation of this world. At that point of time I was really wishing to sit on the top of the van to enjoy all the beauty of that area but our bags were on top of van leaving no place for me.

Within couple of hours we reached raikot. Jeeps were waiting for us.

A beautiful bayal (In local language its meaning is cave among rocks) is present at raikot. It was a shelter of goats. We left our driver in raikot as he was not willing to come with us. A place on way to raikot is called tatta pani which has natural boiling water. Bath in that water is good for person with arthritis. Our driver had some issue in his bones so he opted to take bath in that water hence stayed back. A sarai is present in raikot. Its basically a branch raikot sarai fairy meadows. It’s not suitable for families but boys can sleep in their one big hall which can accommodate 25-30 people on carpet. They charge only 200 rs for full hall. Food is available there but water is not good. You can contact Hassan or 05811-484451 or rehmat nabi 0346-5479114 0312-974216. They can also help you to book Natco tickets on return

We parked car of two members in garages especially for parking

We took 3 jeeps. One for all luggage and two jeeps for 12 members. One member sat in the jeep with luggage.

As per order of local DCO no jeep should take more than six people. It was a purely a jeep trek which quickly gains elevation showing the vast wilderness around raikot, Our all jeeps had roof but we requested our drivers to remove them after little discussion they removed them. Taking photographs from the jeep is extremely tricky and risky for your cameras. So we were not able to take much photographs but that vast wilderness around raikot is photographed for ever in my memory.

Almost on reaching at midpoint we had to stop, as a jeep carrying supplies to tattoo village was stopped on trek and trek was small enough that we can’t overtake it. We stopped there and were able to do some clicks. We initially tried to help the driver to fix the issue with his jeep but it was a hard nut to crack. So we back dragged it to reach a point where it can be overtaken. Members of that jeep asked for lift from us which we happily offered to one person per jeep.

Nanga parbat was all in clouds and we were not able to see it. We crossed a wooden bridge donated by Lahore University and reached tattoo village. Jeeps now a day go little beyond tattoo village saving good 20 minutes of trekking.

We would have gone a little further to save 5-10 minutes of more trekking but encountered another jeep which was stopped on trek due to some issue and we could not have overtaken it. So we left jeeps.

Horses also take people to fairy meadows but no body was telling us exact rate neither we were willing to take them.

A porter charge RS 850 one side to fairy meadows with weight limit of 25kg.

I opted to take my bag myself as it was not containing any thing like sleeping bag or mattress. Moreover slight drizzle also started so we took our parka suit and after taking it nothing is left behind in bag to be given to porter. But rain quickly stopped and we have to put bag every thing.

Just after 5-10 minutes into a trek there is a sarai, we stopped there so as we can all gather together and could pray for the clearance of weather. And it does work.

We started trek in a hot condition and our thick clothes were teasing us badly.

On our way up we met a Russian couple who was descending down and were not able to see the nanga parabat due to cloudy weather. Our guide told us that weather is like that for 5-6 days. That Russian couple was descending and we were ascending.

Any ways after exchanging greetings we moved forward.

We got some relief from the hot weather as we entered in the forest. I didn’t carry my famous stick with me considering that it would be simple trek but my body was creating problems for me. I didn’t carried my rucksack instead carried a normal school bag and it didn’t had proper straps so that was causing further to my problems.

Even at midway point I gave my bag to one of my friend for some while. It was only a 3 hour trek but my performance was quite disappointing as I was not in regular exercise and I was included in that trip at almost the last minute. Any ways on our way upto fairy meadows nanga parbat showed some glimpse of herself form behind the clouds and the first word most of us uttered was that its going straight into the sky. We could not have imagined that 8000m peak would look that much high. All of us started running towards fairy meadows so as we could take a better picture. We took some pictures and made some videos and reached fairy meadows.

Although I thought that I walked very slowly which is the normal case with me as I am always at the end but local porters and guide repeatedly mentioned to us that we all guys walked too fast.

We were at fairy meadows at around 3 pm. The first things which we do on reaching any destination is to eat & drink soup + noodles. Rain started again and nanga parbat again went behind clouds.

We stayed in broad view cottages and at the very last corner of broad view cottages mobile signal of ufone do come but they also come after some tries. PTCL wireless works there without any issue.

We moved to main fairy meadows plain and when reached there snow fall started and it picked up so much that within minutes our whole suits were turned white.

That was a purely surprising and almost all of us thank almighty Allah for such a pleasant surprise. Snow fall continued till sunset. I went into the bed but soon severe shivering took over due to low temperature.  Friends waked me up for dinner. Fazal lala made desi chicken karahi & daal mash. It was the first time in my life I was eating desi chicken and it was little tough to me to swallow it but it was cooked well. Any ways I love daal mash more than chicken and when I saw it then who cares of chicken.

We requested fazal lala to give us sleeping bag along with blankets. But obviously we were not there to sleep so we asked for a bonfire as rain was stopped. That was the best bonfire of my life, I will explain it shortly why it was the best.

The wood for bonfire was very good as it was not getting consumed quickly. One by one every member left us and four of us were left (me, mohsin, danial, sajjad). One of member was in search of fairies and decided to take the sleeping bag and was going to spend the night in the jungle. Unluckily he got the fever due to spending time in snow fall without water proof clothes so he went to his room.

Mohsin started reading some book but it was a boring story so we asked him to read it first and then tell us the story. Story was translated version of some foreign writer and story name was probably “wall”. Our discussion was mainly on Jins, fairies etc Sky got cleared and one of us was able to take night shot of nanga parbat. It was an unexplainable experience that how good sky looked.

Good washrooms were available in broad view cottages but their is a trick to them which unfortunately I learned on very last day. Hot water comes only in the tap along with the shower and freezing cold water comes in the taps for cleaning. I am not sure how I would explain my experience of washing with that cold water but it took good 10-15 minutes just to wash, rest you can understand that how cold water was.

Wood kept on burning when two more members left. We put the water on burning woods and at 12:00 we started gazing at the stars without any light. This is the one of the most life remembering night as I don’t remember that in any trekking we would have stayed awaked for that long.

Suddenly I got the feeling that somebody is watching us. Obviously it was the result of the discussion we were having and once we extinguished the fire then such sort of things were natural to come to our heart. And those things were so much influencing that I was standing with one of my room mate and I was not letting him go that if I would have left him in open and myself went to room and found him already sleeping their then what would have happened to me. Also as fire was extinguished we started feeling cold so we went to our hut at 12:15. We put the alarm of 4:15 am and 12:30 we went to sleep.

We were the last one to sleep and the first one to wake up. It was nearly one hour for sun rise and nanga parbat was standing completely naked and clear in front of us. So as so even rakaposhi was absolutely clear to us. We tried to wake every body up but only a few of us waked up to see such a life remembering sight. We moved here and there, some to main fairy meadows some to lawns broad view cottages and took many pictures.

We did breakfast parathas, omlet, fried eggs and tea. It was all awesome.

At 9:30 am we offered collective prayer for our mission ahead to reach to basecamp and our trek started.

We planned to start trek a little early but nanga parbat was so attractive & clear that we even thought to call off the trek to bayalcamp and basecamp. Two members opted to stay at fairy meadows due to bad health

Our guide was Mr Aleem Ullah Malik who was 47 years old and was liked to be called as Mr. Malik. He took his gun for hunting and we left broad view cottages. We first moved to fairy meadows main ground which was only 5 minutes away and then we moved to reach to picture point where we took 10 minutes break & took some click and moved on to bayal camp. Bayal in local language mean cave in rocks.

The end part of bayal camp is extremely beautiful. Even I rate it more in beauty as compared to fairy meadows. Unfortunately nanga parbat again went behind the clouds and we were not able to see it full again. At the end of bayal camp we met a German mountaineer who told us that he reached to viewpoint with a great difficulty and basecamp is simply out of question without having proper equipment. His name was probably Michael maze. His guide also told us that basecamp is out of question. Even our guide kept us telling us that basecamp is not possible.

From Bayal camp we moved onto Hermal bol. Those of us who have gaiters they took them on. Those who didn’t had gaiters they put plastic bag over their socks. None of carried crampons neither they were required at this stage but one of member took his socks and took them over his shoes. This is a good alternative to crampons as per told by Bear Grylls.

Herman bol camp is extremely beautiful and has every thing to align soul with the body. At 1:00 pm we reached at view point. I was extremely happy with my performance as my body fully opened up and I was enjoying this second day trek. Our guide was troubled with our speed and he said us many times that we move too fast. Although we were moving with normal speed.

On reaching view point we the young group were unanimous that we were going to attempt basecamp. We said even if we would not be able to reach to base camp atleast we would try. Our guide was not convinced with our plan and advised us that time is short we must return but we were not ready to listen to him. Eventually he told us the way to basecamp. We decided to choose the way with more snow. Our guide refused and decided to come with us and he derived his own new way.

Out of 11 members, two opted to stay at viewpoint which is undoubtedly extremely beautiful and nine members + guide started trek to basecamp.

The guide took us from a relative safe path having no threat of rock sliding but it was difficult hike over the rocks. In short it was a no trek we made it a trek.

I was ahead with the guide and he was continuously telling me time is short we wont be able to reach basecamp. We should turn back soon. I simply got irritated by that and took a bad decision I asked him to move without stop and move as fast as he could. He was moving with his normal pace and I left him behind and then he chased me out and for next one hour this chase continues some time he chase me out and sometime I chase him out. The advantage of this speed act was that he stopped saying that basecamp is not possible and disadvantage of it was that my full team was left behind for good 15-30 minutes. Now issue was that trek required the guide and we were already quite ahead. The path was treacherous. So we have to stop for the team and rest of team was obviously a little angry for leaving them behind. Now disadvantage of stopping was that he again started saying that time is short. I cooled him down by saying that those who are at more distance will themselves return back so please cool down.

We again started the trek and one of our member slipped from the very edge, as the snow ridge just dropped off. He was going to atleast 50 feet drop on solid rocks when guide caught him by his arm so Alhamdulillah no damage done.

I have read it some where that Almighty Allah like three persons very much. 
1- Who offer prayer in Jihad 
2- Who wake up in night offer prayer but due to extreme doziness he go for sajda and    unconsciously sleep in it
3- One who go in mountains and offer azan and make congregation prayer.

We had this opportunity for the third one & hope & pray that Almighty Allah accept what mentioned in that third point.

We all gathered around, some of our members (4 members) mentioned to return back from this point as it was a good ascend to basecamp and it was already 3:00pm but now our guide instead of saying that time in short he started saying now it’s his decision whether to abandon or  not and his decision is to move up.  So we decided to move up. Within few minutes we realized what we have decided is not a simple thing. I was second after the guide and my each and every foot is taking me down upto my hips and I was stopping further sinking by placing my elbows. Now this sinking in snow was creating big holes in the snow causing my team members to get in more trouble. Our guide was probably angry with us or was extremely happy with our performance as he mentioned to me move fast, he will take us to the middle of basecamp. Luckily when my rest of teams started shouting that where is he going then he changed his decision to take us only to the start of basecamp.

Due to my extreme consumption of energy by that sinking in snow I asked adeel liaqat to come in front. He is 6 feet 4 inch but his leading was also no difference as he was also getting sunk upto his hips. But some how he managed it to the basecamp. I then asked to mohsin Alam to come in front of me. Probably due to his light weight he was not that much sunk in the snow and we finally reached the base camp.

In the boundaries of the basecamp there was good 9-10 feet high rock. It was actually higher then but from our side it was no more than 9 -10 feet. Our guide climbed on it. The rock hardly had space for 5 people. He pulled us one by one to the rock. We took few photographs.

On our return back locals told us that base camp starts from second “pani” and we moved far beyond second pani. I am not sure what was going through our guides mind. Probably he initially told us that xyz rock is start of basecamp so he took us to that point but as per locals we were quite far into the base camp.

We stayed there for 10 minutes and at 3:30 – 3:45 pm we started moving back. Just as we started moving back almost each of us slipped from a point and stopped himself from further going down holding a bush. It was my second dangerous slip. Just as we moved back and I was telling the guy in front of me that if he slips than leave every thing and turn back to hold me. I didn’t even complete that sentence that I myself slipped. These slips affected me so badly that it got over my mind and body and I started taking each and every step with extra care. It resulted that I was previously leading now I was trailing. Thanks to daniyal and adeel for staying with me till the end of difficult area till viewpoint. On return I don’t know what came in the mind of our guide and he took us from the path which he previously avoided saying that rock gets slides down at any time. He was not wrong is saying that but why he choose that path, probably to save the time. We were at halfway mark to viewpoint that snow fall started. Any ways at 5 pm we reached at view point. Path from view point to fairy meadows was not dangerous even if night would fall, so we were relaxed. Hardly sitting there for 5 minutes we started moving back. It is great to mention that 3 guys did the basecamp without sticks. And two guys did the basecamp with the urban sole. Hat off to them.

Snowfall picked up and despite the fact that rest of the trek was not tough but one of our guy slipped four times at same one spot.

We were moving fast in order to take advantage of daylight and were hardly taking any rest. I remember that we probably stopped for 2-3 minutes on reaching at bayal camp but still a long way ahead. Basecamp has taken most of our energy and we were just limping around. Snow fall got in full flow.

We hard the torch lights but unfortunately I forgot the new cells at fairy meadows so my head torch was not giving much light. At around 7:30 we all reached back to fairy meadows.  Two of our members reached five minutes late then 7:30 they went little off the way and got a little panicked but it’s a safe forest so no issue.

I was so much tired that even sitting on the chair was not possible for me. I needed to got washroom but didn’t had energy to go to it. We had bonfire. I wanted to go to my bed but going to bed without soup and taking medicine could be inviting more troubles. Within 30 minuets soups & noodles got ready. I took soupy noodles, took 2 disperin and went to bed. I was so much tired to come out again and even had dinner in my hut. I do know that guys had a lot of fun that night. They roasted the goat meat and do bhangra & singing but I was in dire need of rest. So much so that I kept it on hold and went to washroom in next morning. I hope this can give you idea how tired I was.

The guy who came with us just in search of fairies finally spent a night in open all alone. In morning he had a story to tell but lack of witness resulted in less belief in it.

Any ways he said at 3 in the morning he saw a laser beam coming from sky and going straight to peak of nanga parbat. He listened some footsteps and then they went away.

In previous night if he didn’t had the fever we had the full plan to make him meet a “fairy”. Plan was that as soon as he will go in the jungle we will take our mobile sets and would play music from different directions. Luckily he got the fever.

Next day we said good bye to nanga parbat which was partially visible. We started our trek down at 8:30 am after doing breakfast. Jeeps were already given time to reach at 10 am

We also reached down till 10. We left Tatoo at 10:30 and reached to raikot at 12:15. We changed our clothes and did packing. At sharp 1:00 pm we left Raikot.

At around 3:15 pm we reached a point called harna (present between chilas & dasu). We stopped by police and said we need to make a convey to move ahead. After nearly waiting for 45 minutes convey was made but local drivers were very quick and soon left us behind. We were again stopped probably at “shattal”. They asked why we are moving without convey, we mentioned to them that local driver are fast. They allowed us to go and said to drive fast. But local driver were really quick. We were again stopped at point before dasu. They were not allowing us move ahead without convey. We requested them that we will stop at dasu, after 15 minutes they allowed us at the same time a van arrived so they asked to move with it. At dasu we stopped to fill diesel in our van and then stopped to take some biscuits etc. We left dasu at 7:30 a bus quickly passed by us. Police at dasu thought that we were in convey of that bus and asked us to quickly chase it but considering road their was no such chance. Anyways once we left dasu we were not stopped and we reached besham at 11:00 pm in the night. We had dinner at midway hotel which is second building from petrol pump. Food was good but quantity was arguable. At this point our driver simply refused to travel further until morning. Most of us didn’t taken leave for Wednesday and as per plan he has to drive but he simply said it’s not safe. Wait for the morning. Driver attitude with us was very nice throughout the trip and if he was not feeling safe to drive in the night then for the safety of all the team we should agree to him any ways we tried to convince him but he simply refused. So we decided to move with the first light. Driver slept in bus and we went on to a room in natco hotel and all the boys slept on carpet. We switched off the lights and started discussion with the quite high volume laughter. The hotel management does come to our room for 2-3 times and looked all around. That why boys with lights off are laughing so high. You don’t need to be the Einstein to know what would be going through their mind: P.

Any ways at 3:45 am we all awoke up and after having tea at 4:45 we left besham. Just after crossing besham we didn’t noticed a checkpost and moved ahead army stopped us and we had to apologize them & identify all of us and then moved forward.

At 12 noon we were at Islamabad at 2:30 we were eating daall chana and parathas all cooked on desi ghee.

When we reach near kala shah kaku, traffic was blocked due to some protest. After 2 hours police used their usual(desi) method to clear the traffic. At around 8 we reached back to Lahore. One of our members was in hurry and left his shoes and jacket in van. He will be now giving us a treat for this soon.

now the time for suggestions. I will try to be short

1- Our driver drived for continuous 22 hours. It could have been dangerous. He needs to be given rest at some point but if we leave at 10 pm and have him rest for four hours then we will reach at dasu around 6pm. Police is not going to allow to move us without convey making. So first suggestion is that we should leave Lahore at 4pm and have him rest for four hours at batgram from 2-6 am. Carrying two drivers is good option but it will increase the cost or if that not possible then move on natco.

2- For person who will be doing camping. If you reach at fairy meadows and see whether is not clear to see nanga parbat then move onto herman buhl camp and camp there. Next morning do basecamp and return back to fairy meadows. It will obviously increase the cost of portage but will save lots of time.

3- Spend night in dasu on return. Or go on natco.

4- Instead of staying at chilas stay at sarai at raikot. It will save some money and important 2 hours.

5- If babusar pass road is open then always prefer it over KKH.

A close shot of Fairy meadows

is it a Adventure journey?

Only one option to cross this way.

Do you think its hard to trekking here?

Tour cost for each person was 11000 Pkr. jeeps took 5000 pkr from Raikot Bridge to Tattu Village and back to Raikot Bridge.